Day 50 in Russia!!!
We spent the last couple of weeks in the Lake Baikal region, basing ourselves in Irkutsk and venturing out to villages around the lake.
Irkutsk
Population: 591,000
Distance from Moscow: 5,185km
Famous for: Founded by a Cossack garrison; for a long time Irkutsk served as a springboard for expeditions to the far north and east as far as Alaska - which was referred to as the 'American District of Irkutsk'. In later years the town transformed itself into eastern Siberia's trading and administrative centre.
Our final stop along the trans-siberian route has landed us in Irkutsk, the large gateway town to Lake Baikal - our ultimate destination. We were determined to quickly complete all our necessary errands before putting on our swimsuits and hiking boots and heading down to the lake. Our tasks included purchasing our train tickets to Mongolia and obtaining our 30 day visas into the country.
The very busy train station in Irkutsk.
With nearly six weeks experience in dealing with Russian train stations and buying tickets, we quickly booked our final seats aboard the 36 hour train to Ulaan Bataar - the capital of Mongolia. Obtaining our Mongolian visas was equally straight forward but involved an unexpected exchange with the official at the embassy.
The visa form included an 'optional' space for applicants to write in their current job title and employer. We initially agreed to leave this space blank; however upon reading our forms, the official immediately requested that we input the missing information. Fearing we might get our visa request rejected by writing 'unemployed', we wrote down our previous job titles and employers. The job titles 'financial analyst' and business analyst' aroused great interest in the official who then proceeded to question us abour our roles. It transpired through our conversation that the official had personal ambitions to train as an analyst and used her position of interviewing visa applicants as an opportunity to 'pump' them for information on good qualifications and courses to complete. She even went as far as requesting a CD of any of the latest training material we may have had - we're not sure if she ever managed to find any tourists who carry training manuals with them on holiday!!
We spent a total of three days in Irkutsk in the midst of a mini heat wave during which many ice creams were consumed.
Eric enjoying an ice cream after a busy day!
Olkhon Island
Population: 1200
Famous for: A long undulating island of subtle beauty, considered to be one of the five global poles of shamanic energy.
Our first trip out to the lake was to Olkhon Island, a six hour bumpy bus ride along winding dirt roads. Having spent so much of our time in Russia in large 'civilised' towns and cities, life on Olkhon Island came as a refreshing change. The island boasts great natural beauty which comes in the form of rolling hills, rich green forests, sandy plains, marshlands, and beautiful unspoilt beaches.
The crystal clear waters surrounding Olkhon Island.
Large stretches of sandy beaches and forests.... and no tourists in sight.
View of the Shaman Rocks.
There is no running water and certainly no hot water to be found, even in the largest village - which is where we stayed. We were lodged and fed in a wonderfully run guesthouse a stone's throw away from the fabled Shaman Rocks.
Our lodgings in the village came complete with friendly guard dog.
Eric washes his hair in the world's biggest bath!
The town sits on top of cliffs overlooking the lake.
Only the cows venture out on a rainy afternoon.
We were very reluctant to leave the beauty of Olkhon Island.
Listvyanka
Population: 2500
Famous for: A small fishing village, Listvyanka's concentrations of old wooden cottages tumble down three seperate valleys and hug the banks of Lake Baikal.
An hour's ferry ride away from Irkutsk, nestled at the mouth of the Angara River is the fishing village of Listvyanka. We spent our time exploring the three valleys in which the settlement has grown, admiring the views across the lake from the hill tops and sampling the delicious fresh fish which is smoked and sold in the market place by the fisherman's wives.
Listvyanka hugs the banks of the lake.
Great views from the hill tops.
Local women dry and sell their fish in the market.
Catch of the day! ...Omul (the famous Baikal fish)
Bolshie Koty
Population: Less than 200?
Famous for: Founded by 19th Century gold miners and named 'Bolshie Koty' for their 'Big Boots'; this picturesque village sits sheltered in a small valley surrounded by untouched forests and hillsides and the magestic waters of the lake.
A tiny quaint fishing village accessible only by boat, there were no hotels, no shops, no restaurants....simply a cluster of picturesque wooden cottages. The village is completely cut off for three months of the year when the lake freezes over as there are no roads in or out of the valley. Only those courageous enough to attempt a drive over the ice can make it into the village during this time.
Bolshie Koty is surrounded by hills and cut off from the rest of Siberia.
Sailing into Bolshie Koty's harbour is the only way to get to the village.
A typical house in Bolshie Koty.
With no working phone lines, therefore impossible to make a reservation, we crossed our fingers and headed to the infamous "Bearded Baboushka's" house to ask for a room (her address had been given to us by a friendly travel agent in Irkutsk). Luckily for us her living room was vacant and she soon made up the two couches into comfortable beds. The accommodation included three delicious meals a day, each made using an abundance of home grown fruits and vegetables. We looked forward to every mealtime, eagerly devouring the potatoes and home-made jam in particular.
Nikki tucks into lunch in the Baboushka's kitchen.
We spent our time hiking along 12km of trails along the lake.
Annie (another guest of the baboushka), the baboushka and Nikki.
HAPPY BIRTHDAY EMMA!!! (Nikki's sister)
The infamous 'Bearded Baboushka' sends her regards!!
