The map below outlines the route we are taking across Russia.

We have travelled from St Petersburg to Moscow, Vladimir (not shown), Nizhny Novgorod, and Etkaterinburg.  We are currently in Novosibirsk and will be heading to Krasnoyarsk tonight.  Our projected iternerary will include a two week stay in Irkutsk then on to Ulaan Baatar, Mongolia.

VLADIMIR
Population: 376,000
Distance from Moscow: 199km
Famous for: One of Russia's oldest cities; and its capital in the 1100s.

Having left behind two big metropolises (St. Petersburg and Moscow), we dipped a tentative toe into the heart of Russia.  We took the afternoon train from Moscow 199km east to the town of Vladimir, where upon arrival we were greeted by gray concrete buildings, light drizzle and a man lying unconscious in the station car park - having been knocked down by a taxi.  Deciding to avoid the taxis, we headed for the local trolley-bus #5, which took us to our next destination - our first 'home-stay' with a Russian family.

We were met at the bus stop by Ivan (27 years old, university lecturer, in final year of PHD in philosophy), who led us to a ten-storey, 1960s apartment block.  We were slightly apprehensive at first glance given the crumbling state of the building, the fire-damaged (melted!) buttons in the municipal elevator and exposed wires sticking out of the walls.  However, the warmth and kindness by which we were greeted by Ivan and his parents, Yevgeny and Elisevetta, completely overshadowed and dismissed our initial worries. 

Our three nights with the family was thoroughly enjoyable and very enlightening; we enjoyed some delicious authentic Russian breakfasts; we exchanged personal stories and jokes about our respective backgrounds with Ivan; and we were even happy to experience 'showering' without any running hot water (Nikki had to teach Eric how to 'shower' by mixing boiled and cold water in a bowl). 

'Showering' in Vladimir

Vladimir itself provided us with some spectacular views across the region, some great food, and a welcomed break from the big cities.

Vladimir Cathedral 

Vladimir

 
View from Vladimir

SUZDAL
Population: 12,000
Distance from Moscow: 234km
Famous for: Having most churches per capita in Russia (there is a church on every street)

We took the bus from Vladimir on a day trip to Suzdal arriving at the 'International Bus Station' 2km outside the town.  The 'International Bus Station' (as described by guide books) was singlehandedly run by one woman who sold the tickets, made all the announcements, checked the tickets, boarded the buses and coordinated departures. 

The Suzdal International Bus Station

We found our way onto the local mini-bus which took us into the town center.  Strolling through Suzdal, one can imagine how Russia was 50 years ago; the town has remained unblemished by modernization.  No building is higher than any church, the town sits alongside a picturesque river nestled amongst rolling valleys. 

 
Suzdal churches

View of the Suzdal kremlin

...more Suzdal churches

...more Suzdal churches...