Our alarms rudely awakened us at 4:00 am, giving us just enough time to finish our packing, check out of our guesthouse and board the shuttle bus to the airport.  A trip to Tibet requires purchasing an expensive permit in addition to a valid Chinese visa, as Chinese authorities strictly monitor all passage to the Tibetan plateau - another controversial issue in the historically turbulent Chinese-Tibetan 'forced' relationship.

Our 8am flight was near capacity, filled with a mixture of Chinese, Tibetans and tourists.  The two-hour flight took us from Chengdu - altitude 500 meters - to the capital of the Tibet, Lhasa - altitude 3,700 meters. 

The Himalayas peaked out through the clouds as we approached Lhasa.

From the Lhasa airport a one-hour bus ride took us to downtown Lhasa where we managed to find a room at the YAK Hotel.  Lhasa is a sprawling city pouring outwards from a central tree-lined boulevard and ringed with snow-capped mountaintops.  The Chinese influence amongst the population of 200,000 is very apparent, with 2 Chinese businesses for every Tibetan one, a ratio similar to the population make-up.

Golden Yaks proudly survey the central boulevard.

Rickshaws and cars pass colorful shops selling a variety of goods...including blenders!

Our first few hours were spent exploring the streets surrounding our hotel before we were forced to return to our room to sleep off the early signs of altitude sickness.  At altitude the body does not absorb oxygen efficiently causing mild symptoms such as: exhaustion, headaches, shortness of breath, sleeping disorders and nausea; relaxing for the first few days and drinking plenty of water can help dissipate these symptoms.  To combat AMS (Altitude Mountain Sickness) you must remain at the same altitude whilst your body adjusts, ignoring the mild symptoms and ascending to higher altitudes too quickly can have serious consequences.  Luckily we both only suffered minor symptoms - light headaches and fatigue, which were easily cured by a good nights sleep and drinking plenty of water.

The most famous attraction in Lhasa is the Potala - which has served as a government building, monastery, fortress and most importantly, home to several Dalai Lamas.  Perched on the top of the 'Red Mountain', the palace rises a dramatic 13 stories high and creates an imposing landmark in the middle of the city.  In the morning, pilgrims from all over ethnic Tibet can be seen prostrating themselves in prayer and making offerings in front of the revered building.


The Potala looms over the city rooftops. 


The Potala is an overwhelming architectural sight. 

Outside the Potala, many locals asked us to pose in photographs with their children....the curse of having blonde hair and blue eyes!!

In an attempt to counterbalance the authoritative presence of the Tibetan palace, the Chinese government erected a monument to mark 'Tibetan Liberation' opposite, a statement probably resented by the Tibetans..... since British rule has merely been toppled and replaced with Chinese rule, the Tibetans feel far from liberated.


The 'Tibetan Liberation' monument stands against an amazing backdrop of mountains. 

We also paid a visit to the Sera monastery - one of the last great, functioning monasteries; previously home to 5,000 monks, now only a few hundred are permitted to reside within its walls today.  By chance, whilst exploring the darkened corridors of the monastery’s primary temple, we stumbled across a ceremony attended by several monks and pilgrims.  The worshippers were saying prayers and lighting yak-butter candles in front of colorful and intricate representations of Buddhist gods. 

The monks quarters inside the monastery were decorated with colorful paintings.

Outside the temple, devout Tibetans spun prayer wheels and burned incense.

Upon exiting the temple, we entered a walled, shady courtyard, where we witnessed dozens of monks assembled in small-animated groups.  This fevered activity was the result of monks debating religious theory which involved much posturing, clapping and raising of voices as they drove their points across.


The debating ensues...


A monk listens carefully to his colleague's arguments.

Our sightseeing ended with a tour around Barkhor Square - a highly Tibetan enclave of the city.  The square is laid out in front of the Jokhang Temple - considered to be the holiest temple in the Tibetan Buddhist world - which provides a magnificent route for the visiting pilgrims to march through. 


The Jokhang Temple awaits pilgrims at the end of the square.


An elderly Tibetan woman prays at the temple gates. 

Surrounding the square and the temple are a maze of picturesque cobblestone alleyways, each lined with stalls selling everything from fruit to saddles, jewelry, carpets and religious artifacts.  Wandering the streets the senses are bombarded with flashes of colorful clothing, the sounds of prayers outside the temple and the smell of yak-buttered tea wafting out of local teahouses.  This was truly the most authentic Tibetan experience we could find in Lhasa. 

The streets of Barkhor are lined with colorful stalls and prayer flags.

Dried fruits and spices are for sale alongside spinning prayer wheels.

Tomorrow morning we depart for Mount Everest!!!  Our route will take us across the Tibetan plateau over the course of the next seven days.  We have organized to travel in a jeep with a Belgian couple we met in Lhasa.  Today will be spent stocking up on essentials such as woolly hats, sleeping bags, gloves as well as food and water.