Our first 3 or 4 days in Nepal were spent relaxing on what we have termed ‘admin days’ – ie, days spent catching up on sleep, doing laundry, writing emails, reading guide books and planning our next set of traveling or sightseeing trips.  We stayed in an area of Kathmandu called Thamel – a small network of 5 or 6 narrow streets entirely dedicated to tourists and backpackers.  Guesthouses, restaurants, souvenir shops and grocery stores line the dusty roads providing a haven for travel-weary backpackers who are happy to wander the streets and enjoy an ‘easier’ travel stop (the shops sell English and Belgian chocolate and the restaurants serve pizza deals at lunchtime - heaven!!!).  Whilst Thamel is relaxing, it is far from peaceful; rickshaws, taxis and motorbikes race through the small streets and cramped alleyways with little regard for tourists browsing for souvenirs.  With trekking touts and the local ‘hash’ dealers vying for business amongst the crowds, it is impossible to walk down one block without saying ‘No, thank you!!” at least 5 times.

Hundreds of signs advertising treks, guesthouses and internet cafes hang above the crowded streets.

We took a day trip into the Kathmandu Valley which consisted of a 3-hour hike and some visits to nearby temples.  We hired a taxi for the day which we shared with our 2 Belgian friends – Geert and Danielle – with whom we had crossed Tibet and who were also staying in the same guesthouse as us.  The taxi dropped us off at the town of Sankhu, from where we hiked at a leisurely pace along the hilltops through small villages and farms.  It was a good chance to stretch our legs prior to our upcoming Annapurna trek.

Various shades of green colored the beautiful hillsides.

Along our walk we came across many groups of Nepalese children.

It was great to view the everyday life of the local villagers, many of whom were busy preparing their rice harvests.

The hike ended at the Hindu Temple of Changu Narayan, where we took a small tour to learn about its famous 1,000 year old icons and statues. 

Elephant statues flanked the entrance to the revered Hindu temple.

After a lunch stop at a local hilltop restaurant, we drove back towards Kathmandu stopping at Pashupatinath along the way.  Pashupatinath stands on the banks of the Ganges and is Nepal’s version of Varanasi in India. It is the holiest Hindu site in Nepal.  The river Ganges which starts in Tibet and flows through Nepal into India is held sacred by Hindus and used (amongst other things) for the disposal of the dead.  At the main temple we watched (very briefly) a couple of private ceremonies where the bodies were prepared, blessed, and then set on fire.  Following this ritual, the ashes would then be swept into the river.  It was an extremely unique sight and felt very strange to have paid a tourist entrance fee to watch other peoples private funerals.  Needless to say we didn’t pause long, as the air was thick with ashes and the smell of burning bodies; we also didn’t feel comfortable observing the respective families in their time of morning. 

Smoke from the burning bodies billowed out of the temple grounds.

Luckily there were other colorful sights at the temple to distract us from the funerals.

Our last stop was to the holiest Buddhist stupa in Nepal - an area home to many Tibetans in exile.  The stupa - loacted in Bodnath - was the biggest we have seen so far and was surrounded by colorful Tibetan shops – we felt as if we had been briefly transported back to Lhasa!!

Prayer flags stream down from the top of the stupa.

Two days after our trip around Kathmandu valley we departed to Pokhara to begin our much-anticipated Annapurna trek.  The bus ride to Pokhara was an 11-hour ordeal.  We came across 3 accidents: a bus which had rolled down a steep mountain slope, an oil tanker which had almost completely blocked the narrow 2-lane mountain road, and another bus which had crashed through some barriers and had stopped halfway over a ravine.  Accidents on Nepals’ narrow and winding roads seem to be common place, no doubt fuelled by drivers insisting on driving in the middle of the two lanes and speeding around tight corners.  The extra 3 hours that was subsequently added to our journey time was of little surprise or worry to the driver or the locals.  We arrived in Pokhara at night, and after a brief dinner we set about re-organizing and re-packing our bags to prepare for the start of out trek the following morning.

Gridlock.  (Accident #2)

The Annapurna Trek

The Annapurna Region: Located in central Nepal, the Annapurna region is the area surrounding the Annapurna mountain range which is part of the larger Himalayan range.  It is a common and popular destination for many tourists and is renowned for its natural beauty and great trekking.  In recent years, prosperity has waned slightly due to the increased activities of the Maoist rebels in the area. 

Maoists: The communist party of Nepal (Maoist) are waging a ‘People’s War’ in the hills of Nepal, advocating the establishment of a communist republic in place of the existing constitutional Hindu monarchy.

The Maoists allegedly pose no threat to tourists (they officially support tourism as it provides vital income to local people); however, there have been reports of robbery, extortion and bombings in which tourists were caught up.  Our embassies advise tourists to visit with caution and our guide book describes how we will most likely be asked to make a ‘voluntary donation’ when passing through areas under Maoist control.  Having spoken to tour operators and other travellers in Kathmandu, we felt it was safe enough to visit the Annapurna region.

Day 1
Naya Pul (1000m) to Ulleri (2080m)
6 hours

After a quick successful scout around town for some pastries and croissants for breakfast we took a taxi from our hotel in Pokhara to Naya Pul.  The journey was a 1.5 hour drive up and down twisty mountain roads with the occasional 'road block' along the way.  The road blocks came in the form of a group of children excitedly shouting and waving down vehicles, sometimes with the aid of a bamboo stick held out across the road.  We assumed this activity was part of the 'festival of light' which was taking place that week and seems to also be a license for children to demand sweets or money - in a similar fashion to 'trick or treating' at Halloween.  Whatever the justification our taxi driver was far from amused and kept chasing them away, shouting angrily; we were grateful our drive was not 3 or 4 hours, otherwise the temptation to keep going and run them over might have become too much for the stressed man.

When we arrived at Naya Pul - the starting point of most Annapurna treks - we were besieged by several men touting for porter jobs.  They became especially excited when they saw the size of our bags (we had packed clothes and sleeping bags into Eric's large backpack for him to carry, and snacks and other essentials into Nikki's daypack for her to carry). We had however decided to do the trek on our own, and Eric took great pride in dismissing them with tales of how he had already trekked 100km in the mountains of Scotland - all in 15 hours! (amidst the praise from the porters he neglected to tell them that you don't carry any luggage on the 'Caledonian Challenge' !!).

The starting line.  The entrance to the Annapurna Conservation Area.

Our first day of trekking was amazing.  Bright sunshine along with a gentle cooling breeze accompanied us for most of the morning.  We made our way gradually up the valley and deeper into the mountains, passing through small villages lined with lodges and tea houses. 

Spectacular. 

Most of the villages were part of farming communities and many of the villagers were busy harvesting their rice paddies or making haystacks on the man-made flat steps cut into the hillside.  We saw many 'walking' haystacks and bushes - the locals carrying branches and straw up and down the trail in baskets strapped to their heads (Nepalese bear all the weight of their load using a strap tied around their forehead, only foreigners or porters carrying foreigner's bags, strap the weight on their backs).  The wildlife we saw was largely domestic - donkeys, horses and cows which shared the trails and suspension bridges with us; along with chickens, dogs, and goats etc.  We also saw huge spiders, caterpillars and the odd stick insect.

Stick insects and walking haystacks.

Horse 'caravans' make their way along the trail - transporting goods to remote villages.  The lead horses were adorned with colorful headresses, and were fitted with bells around their neck.

 The trail followed a massive river up the valley.  It was incredibly tempting to stop for a swim but we had failed to bring bathing suits with us and the Nepalese look very dimly on skinny dipping!

The valley was an amazing blend of rice paddies, forests, meadows and rivers.

Suspension bridges connect villages on opposing sides of deep ravines.

We stopped for lunch at a lodge in Tikhedhunga, where we devoured a much needed meal of energy boosting pasta.  We could have stopped for the night in the village but decided to carry on up the trail in order to make the next day's hike more enjoyable.  The trail continued in the form of an steep climb up a reported 3,300 steps; which we completed in the midst of a tropical downpour.  After two hours, soaked and exhausted, we arrived in Ulleri, our village for the night.  We managed to find a room with little hassle.  Most lodges in the Annapurna region offer twin rooms with shared toilet and shower facilities - all for the princely sum of 100 Rupees ($1.30!!!).  It was very cold that night and we were extremely glad for our thermals and wooly hats.  Cold, exhaustion, plus a lack of electricity meant we were safely cocooned in our sleeping bags and fast asleep by 8:00pm.

The colorful lodges catered to western tourists; each room had a spectacular view of the surrounding mountains.

Day 2

Ulleri (2080m) to Deorali (2870m)

4 to 5 hours

We departed for our second day of trekking at 7:30am and were soon glad we had hiked the extra 2 hours the day before.  The trek continued uphill and whilst there were occasional flats, most of the climb was up more stone steps. 

As we hiked ever upwards the rice paddies and large clearings gave way to thick forests, steep hillsides and a few man-made flat steps which appeared to be dedicated to grazing.  The numbers of cows noticeably decreased and were replaced with oxen, but there were always plenty of chickens clucking about on the trail.  Much of the second day's walk was through oak and rhododendron forests.  The trees and rocks either side of the trail were thick with moss and ferns making it quite a dark and enchanting woodland.  The trail was occasionally overtaken by miniature streams and waterfalls which we trudged through with little care as we climbed higher on out tired legs. 

The forests were dense with lots of plants, trees and streams.

The trail also bridged several larger streams which cascaded down the mountainside in a series of magnificent waterfalls.  Nepal is certainly a picturesque and beautiful place.  Natural wildlife was scarce apart for glimpses of brightly coloured birds.  We also came across a group of monkeys screaming and jumping in the trees.  They had a crown of white fur on their heads and grew to a fairly large size; unfortunately they neither stayed still nor close enough for a photo.

Nikki takes a water break in the sunshine.

Geert, Danielle and Eric pose for the camera. 

We didn't stop for lunch but carried on with short stops for snacks and water.  It took us just over 4 hours to reach Deorali with the last half hour being a grueling series of steep steps draining our already heavy legs....but an amazing view of the Annapurna's greeted us at the top,  and all aches and pains were instantly forgotten.  We were amongst the first trekkers of the day to reach the village and so had the choice of lodges to stay in.  We opted for the 'Super View' guesthouse which certainly lived up to its name.  We were given the best room in the lodge - a 2-aspect corner room overlooking the village and the surrounding mountain range.  We rewarded ourselves that afternoon with a long relaxing lunch under the towering Annapurna South mountain peak.

Whilst we were enjoying our dinner that evening we were finally 'caught' by the Maoist Rebels!!  Unfortunately our encounter was neither dramatic nor exciting.  A group of about 4 entered our lodge and conducted a circuit of the dining room, going from table to table asking for 'voluntary donations' to the Maoist Rebel cause.  A young guy of about 20 approached us, apologised for disturbing our dinner and requested we pay a 'tax' of 1200 Rupees ($17).  Eric and our Belgian friend Geert made a few half hearted attempts at getting a 'student discount' or '2 for 1' but there was no bargaining to be had.  Whist we waited for our receipts we were informed that our 'donations' would go to worthy causes such as building local schools and sponsoring community doctors (no mention of the procuring of guns).  We were also told how the Maoists were fighting for the poor people whom they would never hurt, and how they were persecuted by the government and the king...it would have been great to have a lengthy discussion about the current state of politics in Nepal but we thought this wasn't the time or place and so didn't question the truthfulness of our orator.  After our receipts were issued and our 1200R per person handed over, they wished us a goodnight and a good time in Nepal - an exceptionally gentlemanly way of conducting what is essentially a rebel war! ...somehow we don't think the locals are treated in the same courteous way.

Day 3

Deorali (2870m) to Tadapani (2700m)

6 hours

Our alarm went off at the ungodly hour of 4:30am, we dragged ourselves out of bed and layered-up with thermals, shirts, jumpers etc.  Having grabbed some snacks and water, we set off on a 45 minute hike up nearby Poon Hill - a renowned viewpoint from which to watch the sun rise and light up the Annapurna mountain range.  The climb up was torturous - step after step after step - though many people were determined to tackle it.  All the way up the hill you could see a snaking trail of torches (Am: 'flashlights') as fellow trekkers trudged up the mountain, no doubt also wondering why they hadn't stayed snug and warm in their beds on this cold, dark, frosty morning.  As we climbed light began to seep over the horizon illuminating the mountains against the still starry night sky.  After a few rest stops (Nikki's body, unlike Eric's, highly protested at this early morning hike) we finally made it to the top - wow what a glorious view! The sun was just coming over the distant hills, the sky was clear, and we had an amazing view of the Annapurna's.  At this point we of course started going photo mad - along with the other 50 or so tourists at the top of Poon Hill. 

The sun begins to rise over distant hills. 

The mountain peaks slowly became visible in the starry night sky. 

Twilight illuminated the high peak of 'Annapurna South'.

The sun then finally broke over the horizon setting the mountain tops on fire. 

On the top of Poon Hill we were surrounded by the Himalayas.

Poon Hill: 3,210 meters.

We stayed at the top throughout dawn; it was absolutely freezing despite our many layers and thermals.  When we finally headed back down around 7:00am it took nearly the entire descent to regain feeling and warmth in our fingers and toes. 

After a short breakfast stop at our lodge we headed off on our day's trek to Tadapani.  The trek started off with another hike up a different hill.  Most of the trail was through open forest which was a pleasant early morning walk.  There were few signs of wildlife though we did manage to spot a mongoose which went scurrying off to the shelter of the undergrowth.  The hill climb was very deceptive, frequently we thought we had reached the top only to continue and find another set of steps awaiting us around the corner.  We were however treated to many great views of the mountains on the way up.

Snowy mountaintops were still visible through the trees as we made our way up the hill.
 

Not a bad spot for a water break. 

We trekked to over 3000m, where we found bamboo growing amongst the trees - very different to the similar heights of the French Alps!  The trails were quite muddy and slippery at times, especially as we descended down into the next valley.  When we began our descent tiny trickles of water flowed over the trail, a few of these grew and combined to form small streams which followed us down the mountain before becoming one large powerful river crashing its way through the valley.  Apart from a large flock of sheep and goats being herded down the mountainside, animal life remained scarce.  The distant clanging of bells around horses necks were echoed by the clacking of walking sticks on rocks as trekkers made their way along the trails.

Water, rocks, trees and bushes.

Waterfall cascades down through the bushes.

Our trek ended with another steep climb up the mountainside to the small village of Tadapani.  This time the steps were partly made from stones (like before) but also carved out by huge tree roots gaping out of the soil.  When we arrived at Tadapani we secured a room at the 'Super View' lodge (not affiliated with our previous nights' lodgings).  The temperature dropped sharply in the evening and we were forced to huddle around the warmest place in the lodge - the dining room table which was heated underneath with old-fashioned bedpans.  It was definitely straight to bed after dinner for all the lodge's guests that night!

Day 4

Tadapani (2700m) to Naya Pul (1000m)

6 hours 

We set off down the mountain at 7:30am taking in some great views of the Annapurna's along the way.  Most of the first 2 hours were spent trekking down windy mud paths in the middle of a magnificent forest.  We seemed to interrupt a group of monkeys who went screaming and crashing through the tree tops.  Gradually the forest gave way to rice paddies as we descended down and the temperature became noticeably warmer. 

Spot the monkeys.

We reached our first marker village of Gandruk after about 2 hours and stopped for drinks and snacks.  As we were leaving the village we repeatedly asked the locals to confirm we were headed in the right direction as the village was a maze of confusing stone streets.  Confident we were on the right track.....we went completely the wrong way.  We were still heading down the same valley but along a trail that would end in a village on the opposite side to which we had intended - so no harm done!! 

The walk down was hot but nice.  There were many rice paddies occupied by farmers busy making hay and sifting the rice from the husk.  The steps leading down into the valley soon became torturous as the hard stone was very unforgiving on our knees.  We both suffered from wobbly legs and heavy feet meaning there were plenty of trips and near-twisted ankles along the way.  We made it to Birethanti in 6 hours total and stopped for a well deserved lunch from which we nearly didn't emerge to walk the extra 20 minutes to the taxi stand as our muscles began seizing up.  An hour-long taxi ride took us back to Pokhara where a gloriously hot shower and soft bed awaited us!

Rice paddies covered the hillsides. 

 After a few days rest in Pokhara, we made it back into Kathmandu.