We have now arrived in Irkutsk - a city of 500,000 people deep in the heart of Siberia. Since our last post, ten days ago in Niznhy Novgorod, we have covered close to 5,000 kilometers, spent a total of 70 hours on trains, crossed the Euro-Asian border, and travelled through 5 timezones. We both continue to experience a mild form of jetlag as we cross Russia's timezones. This is certainly not helped by the need to keep our watches on Moscow time for the trains. Train timetables and clocks in the train stations throughout all of Russia are set to Moscow time!! (Considering the rail network covers over 8 timezones, this is probably the only way it could work). We both look forward to the day we don't have to double-check our time calculations and alarm settings.
YEKATERINBURG
Population: 1.26 million (Russia's 5th largest city)
Distance from Moscow: 1,816 km
Famous for: Playing a key role in the consolidation of Communism with the murder of the Romonav family (the last Russian Tsars); providing the setting for the Cold War 'U2 affair'; and being the birthplace of Boris Yeltsin.
The journey from Nizhny Novgorod to Yekaterinburg was our first long-haul (23 hours) Russian train experience. Not knowing what to expect we made sure to fully stock up on the key essentials, namely several changes of clothes, a variety of travel games, lots of water, and of course plenty of snacks. As well as these physical preperations, we also mentally readied ourselves for the 'unkowns' - such as our kupe companions (kupe: Russian term for 4-person sleeping compartment), and the formalities and workings of the Russian trains.
Our roommates turned out to be a friendly middle-aged couple, communication proved to be a little too challenging, but simple mutual respect and polite smiles defy all language problems.
Eric making his bed.
Our train winds through the Russian countryside.
Spectacular views from the train.
Passing time on the train.... Nikki writing her journal.
We arrived in Yekaterinburg at 11:30 at night, finding the tunnel that linked the platform to the station shut, we were forced to cross 5 or 6 sets of train tracks in order to exit the station. Luckily, our hotel was conveniantly located across the square from the train station and is described in the guide books as: "conventional..... partly-renovated... though cheaper rooms are falling apart." This proved to be an understatement. The hotel lobby was certainly 'partly-renovated' though it was hard to tell through the broken tiles and plaster debris whether the ill-fitting egyptian theme was being pulled down or put up. We checked into the hotel for 2 nights, however, because we checked in after midnight we were only charged for one night?? Needless to say, we didn't try too hard to correct the strange logic of the receptionist. Our hotel room was the worst we have experienced so far, it was not so much the ageing decor, but the layers of dust, mold, damp, and possibly dried blood on the ceiling (??) that we objected to. We both developed colds a couple of days later, the finger of suspicion points to this hotel!!
Accommodation aside, we both loved Yekaterinburg, not so much because of its museums or churches but simply that it was a very pleasant city to walk around and explore. Each corner turned provided new parks, statues and fountains to admire and enjoy.
Soviet-Afghanistan War Memorial
Lenin directs the traffic in downtown Yekaterinburg...
Church and Soviet-era statue.
NOVOSIBIRSK
Population: 1.4 million (Siberia's largest city; Russia's 3rd largest city)
Distance from Moscow: 3,335 km
Famous for: One of the world's biggest Opera & Ballet Theatres (and completed in 1945 by women and children as most of the city's men had gone to war).
A 20-hour train ride brought us into Siberia. We are both feeling like experienced train travellers now, and even used the local supply of hot water to make our 'train dinners'....
At the longer stops (20 minutes or more) people take the opportunity to walk around the platform and buy more food and drink from platform vendors.
'Cooking' our noodles using hot water from the carriage boiler.
A sunset platform break...
Novosibirsk provided us with the opportunity to rest up and recover from our colds, do some laundry, and organize the second half of our journey through Russia.
Lenin guards Novosibirsk's famous theatre.
A small church marks the geographical centre of Russia.
People watching... the local gossips catching up on today's news??
KRASNOYARSK
Population: 817,000
Distance from Moscow: 4,095 km
Famous for: The production of aluminum, car tyres, refrigerators; and one of the major destinations for Russian exiles.
After a very 'short' 12-hour train we reached the city of Krasnoyarsk. The deeper we delve into Siberia, the hotter it seems to get!!! As temperatures easily reached the mid-30's by 10 in the morning.
Our time in the city, was spent exploring the pretty town and strolling along its magnificent river. There were a multitude of outdoor cafes in which we happily took shelter from the midday sun.
The main plaza provides a great setting for a few beers and a view of the surrounding mountains!!
Eric relaxes by the river....
....joined by Nikki.